CHISWICK AS A FISHING VILLAGE

The name Chiswick probably means "the cheese farm" being a compound of the Old English words cese or ciese (cheese) and wic (a manor farm). The riverside meadows from Hammersmith to Twickenham contained many farms up to the nineteenth century. The name "Chesewic" is mentioned in an inquisition of the Manor of Sutton made in 1181 in the reign of King Henry II which is preserved in the library of the Dean and Chapter of St Paul's Cathedral who were at that time the Lords of the Manor of Sutton and who are still the patrons of Chiswick Parish Church.

People have fished on the River Thames and from its banks from pre-historic times. In 1235 it was agreed by the Dean and Chapter of St Paul's and the Prior of Merton, who had the grant of the Thames fisheries from the King, that the men of Sutton and Chiswick were permitted to place 40 weirs for catching barbell and lamprons at a rent of 23 shillings per annum to the Prior.

THE CHURCH AND THE FISHERFOLK

By 1235, a church had already stood on the site of the present Parish Church for at least several hundred years and a village had grown up around the church. As well as being a fishing village, Chiswick also became a river port where boats ferried people, goods and animals across and up and down the river. It is therefore particularly appropriate that the Parish Church should be dedicated to St Nicholas, the patron saint of fishermen and sailors.

It was quite dangerous at times to venture into the river in the small boats; lives were frequently lost and the fisherfolk and ferrymen constantly prayed to God and St Nicholas for deliverance from peril. The Church was very much the centre of community life though doubtlessly it had its rivals in the alehouses and breweries along Church Street and farther afield.

THE RICH HARVEST FROM THE RIVER

In 1640 the fish in the tidal river at Chiswick included turbot, brill, mullet, sea-trout, salmon, shad, soles, smelts, dace, whitebait, flounders, plaice and eels - more different types of fish living locally than we can often find supplied from all over the world in a fishmonger or supermarket today! The Bishops of London had a salmon fishery running from Fulham to Chiswick Eyot and it was just off the Eyot that the last salmon was taken from the water in 1825.

The dace were reported to be good eating, if scaled, laid in salt and water, and fried the next day. The Billingsgate merchants bought the roach to sell to the Jewish community, especially during the Feast of the Tabernacles. However, fishing was then, as now, a hard way to earn a living and the fishing village around the Parish Church was a poor community, in great contrast to the prosperous area we know today. The area was frequently flooded as Chiswick Mall is sometimes today and in those days there were no strong river walls or the great Thames Barrier to protect the fisherfolk of Chiswick from the tides rushing in from the North Sea.

The family of Mrs Chesterman, "a stout and genial personality", who lived in Fisherman's Row by the Parish Church around 1870, did a good fishing trade. She herself recalled that in her childhood her family and friends gathered the currants and raspberries of Chiswick and brought them by boat to the "Hole in the Wall" by Hungerford Bridge for the old Covent Garden Market. They had no problem finding petrol or diesel for their boats in those days as sail and oars propelled them. This was thirsty work, which provided good customers for the nearby Lamb and Griffin Breweries. Mr Henry Smith of Fuller, Smith and Turner's Griffin Brewery was Churchwarden of Chiswick Parish Church for many years and he paid for most of the cost of rebuilding of the Church in 1882-84.

DIRTY OLD THAMES

During the 19th century the river became polluted and the fishing was severely affected, as were the livelihoods of the fisherfolk. However even in the later part of the 19th century boatmen would catch flounders which were sold at a shilling (5p) a dozen to the brickyardmen of Shepherd's Bush and Acton who would sell them on Sundays from baskets and barrows.

By this time Sir John Thorneycroft had opened his world-famous engineering and boat building business to the West of the Church which led to the building of 25 torpedo boats for the Royal Navy in 1885,exports orders all over the world, most notably to Japan where they played a critical role in the sinking of the Russian Fleet in the Russo-Japanese War. Chiswick's torpedo boats may well have hastened the Russian Revolution and other great events of the 20th century!

The River is now much cleaner than it was and fish may once more be caught from its waters, but Chiswick as a fishing village is dead and gone. Chiswick Parish Church however is still very much with us and so is the same great and merciful God the fisherfolk worshipped ; the same God yesterday, today and forever.

David Giles

Prepared for Chiswick Parish Church Open Days - September 2000 AD; adapted from and based on information in Warwick Draper's "Chiswick" first published by Philip Allan & Co in 1932 Reprinted 1990 by Anne Bingley in association with the London Borough of Hounslow


Website: www.chiswickparishchurch.org