We discover the intentions of Chiswick’s latest young turk

For those wondering if Andy has had more than a name change I can reassure them that he has not. At least not yet.

After 43 years of serving doners to discerning diners, Andy has retired leaving his younger cousin Hiko to take over the reigns.

“Who is Lara?” I asked Hiko when we visited the restaurant for a late supper on Tuesday expecting to be told it was his mother’s name or that of a favourite aunt or perhaps Lara Croft or maybe even Doctor Zhivago’s Lara Antipova (though why it would be I’m not sure). In any case it wasn’t any of the aforementioned.

“I decided to change the name because I felt that Andy’s as a business was going downhill.” Explained Hiko “Lara means the same thing in six different languages and is a beautiful place on the Mediterranean coast of Turkey.”

The downstairs restaurant was full with a lively debate in full flow over whether the chilli sauce was hotter this week than it was last proving that Andy’s / Lara’s remains a popular dinner destination.

“Are you planning any other changes?” I enquired apprehensively after all Andy’s was what a friend of mine describes as a ‘Ronseal restaurant’ – does exactly what it says on the menu.

Noting my concern, Hiko reassured me “I will be making a few changes to the menu but all the favourites will remain. I’m planning to add some mezze and some more fish dishes.”

Appeased we ordered Mititey Kofta (spicy meatballs £3.50) and Arnavut Cigeri (lambs liver £4.00) to start followed by a Chiswick Kebab (lamb fillet £10.50) and a Chicken Kebab (needs no explanation! £8.90) – although the dishes were little more than the sum of their parts, the parts were as good as ever.

Washed down with a passable bottle of Italian house wine (£10.00) brought the bill to £40 including service.

Though prone to choosing the same dishes on each visit, I am keen to try out some of the new ones that Hiko adds to the menu. If they have a dash of his zeal and a little of his charm I’ve no doubt they’ll be as good as the golden oldies.

Emma Brophy