Chiswick food writer Andy Hayler reviews the new Thai in town

On the site of the Thai Bistro, Budsara is owned by a family that used to run a local Thai supermarket.

Gone are the canteen benches in favour of simple but tasteful modern decor, the furniture all imported from Thailand.

The menu is much simpler than the Thai Bistro, and one chef has been retained, so there is an element of continuity.

To begin with, complimentary prawn crackers actually taste of prawns, and are served with a sweet chilli sauce. Tom yum goong is the classic spicy soup, here made with tender prawns and a broth that is classical enough though not as complex as some. Nam tok goong is a spicy salad featuring more good prawns and bold spicing which worked well.

A main course fish dish arrived with sea bass rather than the salmon I was expecting, but nonetheless had good red curry paste and again lively spicing.

Pad Thai noodles were just a little chewier than optimal, but still pleasant, as was plain rice. A red curry with vegetables respected the texture of the vegetables (carrots, mange tout etc) and had a reasonable, if fairly simple, curry sauce.

There are some wines but Singha beer is a more obvious accompaniment.

Service was friendly but clearly stretched tonight; Chiswick residents love a new restaurant (even a newish one in this case), and they were turning tables on this Sunday night just a few days after opening.

Andy Hayler

Andy Hayler lives in Chiswick and is a food writer for a number of well known publications. His site Andy Hayler's Restaurant Guide features reviews from restaurants around the world.

September 11, 2007