Offering unpretentious, hearty food in a laid back atmosphere

After a laborious and halting refurbishment project, The Duke of Sussex has finally reopened after being restored to its former regal glory.

Designed by acclaimed architects Shoebridge and Rising, the grade II listed building occupies a prominent site on South Parade overlooking Acton Green. The stuccoed and tile hung exterior has been restored and the interior sympathetically redecorated and furnished with traditional wood and leather, wall lamps and old prints of the local area in days gone by.

The menu features a mixture of British and Spanish dishes listed rather than being split into starters and mains. We shared a generous plate of Spanish cured meats (£13) to start, followed by excellent roast partridge, lentils and black cabbage (£12) and a wonderfully rich and hearty Galician fish stew (£12). To finish we shared a sizeable piece of Manchego with quince membrillo (£5).

The wine list is a collection of whites and reds sourced from a number of suppliers the majority of which are under £20 a bottle and also come served in 375ml carafes. We shared a bottle of Touraine Sauvignon, Domaine de Marce worth every single penny of £14.50 bringing our bill to £62.60 excluding service.

As with the food, the service we experienced is hard to fault. The team at The Duke of Sussex are clearly eager to please and manage to ably do so with warmth and style. Head Chef Chris Payne, formerly of the established and highly celebrated St John’s in Archway, has been charged not only with the kitchen but also helping create an "easygoing and unstuffy foodie pub" alongside manager Mike Buurman. Chris said, “We’re keen to get people eating and sharing food like they would at home."

On the other side of the pub from the dining room is another spacious area set around a central bar, featuring high ceilings and stained glass partitions. The full dinner menu is also available at the bar when the kitchen is open. An excellent choice of real ales such as Harviestoun Ptarmigan, Mordue IPA, Titanic White Star and Hopback Summer Lightning as well as a long list of wines, again available by the carafe.

The pub has a substantial and well appointed beer garden with enough heaters to keep smokers warm throughout the winter months.

Emma Brophy

September 20, 2007