|Hopefully it's a good wine bar|
Nick Montagu finds the food at Libation uninspired
The West end of the High Road is, with a few honourable exceptions, more known for the quick turnover of its restaurants than for their durability and quality. So where do three people, desperate for a meal at 2.40 on a Sunday afternoon and finding the wonderful Taj (one of those exceptions) closed turn?
A few doors down from Taj was the relatively new arrival Libation, offering modern European-style food and open.
The food didn't, really. There is a very reasonable-looking £7.95 two-course menu, and we went for that. For starters, gravadlax was commercial, rather than home-made; so too was the coleslaw, with which it came, in generous quantities, but on a bed of thickly-sliced beetroot. I would have settled for home-made gravadlax on its own. Mushroom soup was thick and a bit Bovril-tasting - distinctly on the cloying side.
The third had what were advertised as linguine with grilled chicken and a creamy sauce. Grilled chicken was there, and there was undoubtedly a creamy sauce, but the linguine turned out to be rather undistinguished gnocchi.
On this showing, Libation may be heading for that typical transitory existence of the Western High Road - unless, as said, it's good enough as a wine bar to stay longer.
October 27, 2004